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Thursday, 05 November 2009

  • Currently
    The Life and Times of the Thunderbolt Kid: A Memoir
    By Bill Bryson
    see related

    a quick update, for those of you who read this

    y’all:

    for those of you who’ve communicated with me within the last year, you know that life has, to say the least, been one giant stew of happenings, including but not limited to:

    living in Zambia for three months,
    being hospitalized for a still-unsorted fluey-whatnot,
    interviewing (and blowing it) for a fellowship with NPR,
    deciding on and applying to MFA (creative nonfiction) programs,
    becoming engaged and (two months later) marrying my best friend Ben,
    moving to Illinois,
    getting accepted to Antioch University Los Angeles’ low-residency MFA program,
    living in New Zealand for a month and a half,
    moving back to Illinois,
    prepping (re: writing and reading my face off, figuring out how the hell to pay for grad school) for my first residency in LA this December…

    which brings us to November 5th, today.

    i am tired and only very slowly absorbing and adjusting to all of this happy chaos.

    but now you know why! :)

    i’m keeping this blog basically to post new writing and occasionally to post updates like this for my friends.  comments and critiques are always welcome, of course.
    mostly, it’s just nice to stay in touch with a small but hardy community of folks who share our writing and our lives, even from a distance.
    that’s irreplaceable.

    that said, folks who know who they are and ought to know they are irreplaceable:  i miss y’all today.  every one of you.

Saturday, 17 October 2009

Tuesday, 06 October 2009

  • Photo #8, continued

    After a couple of hours of painting and listening to chaotic chorus of playing children, I washed my paintbrushes and my hands in the bathroom sink, and I marched outside, straight into a game of soccer.  (Though I use that term loosely—it looked more like a game of hackey-sack, consisting, mostly, of bigger boys tossing the ball back and forth, each showing off his moves.)  I stole the flat ball, and we took the game to a mighty new level: we reached a glorified version of monkey in the middle, broken up by their fits of laughter every time I tangled my toes with the ball with the cement.  Then, a tiny voice, practically a squeak: “Auntie!  Auntie!  Over here!”  The little girl who had tapped on my window earlier was huddled uncertainly with two other girls in a corner of our cement soccer field.  Marita, Precious, and Blessing—I learned their names that night.  Three sisters, daughters of one of the school employees.  I whacked the ball at them, and we all played.  Marita, the smallest, spent a lot of her time bouncing around in the middle of the fuss while the big boys kicked it over her head.  I chased the ball and fumbled it in her direction so she would have a fair go at it.  She picked it up and took off with it.  I ran her down and swept her up, squealing, and kicked the ball back to the others.

    The boys eventually wandered home, but the girls live on the school’s property.  They hung around the guesthouse while Dru and I made dinner.  We finally chased off the girls long after dark.  Before we ate, Dru prayed over our food, and among her other honorable mentions, she asked God for my time at the school and with the children to be enlightening.  Uplifting.  “And refreshing,” she finished, after a pause.  I love her quiet confidence, the kind I long for, the confidence prayed out of a loving relationship, not neediness.  She prays like she knows the difference. 

     

                It’s about 6:45, nearly light enough to work in the classrooms, now that I’ve already stumbled across the school yard to check my email, and back.  Dru is up and moving.  I yawn, put aside my book, my journal and pen, stand and stretch, and pad to the kitchen to put my teacup on the sink.  “I’m headed out,” I call down the hallway to her.  I hear water trickling in the bathroom sink.

                “Be over soon!” she calls back, mouth full of toothpaste.

                My backpack of supplies is waiting for me at the front door.  I sling it over my shoulder and step out the door into early morning cool.  And cutting through the quiet, from across the school yard, I hear them.  Scrrreeak, and a metallic shudder.  Scrrreeak.  Metallic shudder.

                No way.  I blink and squint.

                Two girls, small, dark shapes under a dimly lit sky, are working the swings, heads tilted back, giggling, and each one pumps her skinny legs furiously.  Scrreeak, shudder. A small handful of children are scattered on the playground.  Several of them kick another floppy red soccer ball back and forth, and three girls sit on the edge of a cement slab, bare feet in the scrubby grass, playing hand-clapping games.  Tinny voices chant in a language I can only assume is Bemba.

                It’s not even seven yet…These children are warriors, champions of playtime, dedicated to their cause.  Or—

                Home is not warm enough, safe and comforting enough, to make them want to stay.  School, apparently, is.

                I shake my head, amazed, hike up my backpack, and walk to unlock the building.  I lock it behind me because I don’t know if the children are allowed in, on holidays.  I unpack and pick up where I left off the day before, with yellow letters.  I’m back to teetering on my perch, feeling whole and happy for the first time in weeks, completely immersed in color and shape and clean, bright lines.

                By 7:30 or 8, the playground is teeming with, must be—what? One hundred? Maybe more?  Squirming, shrieking, raucous children, and the school staff are setting up shop as though it’s a fairly normal day.  The lunch-smells of cooking nshima and—unfortunately—fishy kapenta waft from the small kitchen through the window of my classroom.  The teachers and kitchen staff have already called the students to the front doorway for bread and jam and small mugs of milk.  I hear the soft clattering of plastic cups against plastic plates.  Out of the corner of my eye, I watch even the youngest kids eat enthusiastically and, if not tidily, then carefully, savoring the meal.  Dishes are discarded.  Play resumes.

                Out of the corner of my eye, I catch sight of Dru in jeans and a blue and pink tshirt, white ponytail swinging, marching across the schoolyard.  With each step she takes, small children latch onto any available part of her body.  If none are available, then they latch onto the child closest to her.  She’s told me that her kids don’t see her as often as she would like or, apparently, as often as they would like, and I grin as she approaches the school, wobbling under all her extra appendages. 

                She pries her hands and arms from theirs and puts her head inside my classroom to call me outside for singing and prayer time and an introduction.  I stick my paintbrush into my messy ponytail and scrub my hands in the bathroom sink.  I am used to the odd assortment of frayed, patched, dusty clothing that so many Zambian children wear; I’m quite comfortable surrounded by folks in brazenly mismatched outfits—winter sweaters and short, frilly pink skirts, green tshirts and wild orange and blue chitenges.  Still, I’m conscious of the gaping holes in the thighs and knees of my jeans as I walk to front of the school building and stand to the side of the crowd of children. 

                John Mumba has had them organize themselves in lines in front of the school.  A noble idea, that—like asking one hundred puppies to line up.  I’m surprised to see, for the most part, the kids have obeyed, with only a handful of arms and legs poking out the sides.  By the time I’m outside, they’re singing the last verse of their first song, and their eyes shift to sneak peeks at me.  I clap along awkwardly until Dru, bless her, stands in front of the children with her hands on her hips.  “Which song today?”  An excited murmur ripples the lines of squirming kids. 

                “Tikki!”  Little pleas burst from a few.

                “Tikki?”  Dru raises her eyebrows, mock surprise.  “Ah tikki ta?” she asks, to delighted laughter, as kids poke each other in the sides knowingly.

                Dru claps, and the kids follow.  Ah tikki ta, ah tikki ta, ah tikki tat a TAH,” she calls, once or twice.  Then, “Arms OUT!  Chin UP!”  She sways back and forth as she sings, again, “Ah tikki ta, ah tikki ta, ah tikki tat a TAH!”  Dru and her army of children progress through “arms OUT, thumbs UP, shoulders BACK, KNEES in,” each time reverting to ah tikki tah! 

                By the time we arrive at BUNS OUT!, the children and I are howling with laughter, hardly in tune or in time, hands and feet and butts wagging everywhere, and Dru is swaying and clapping with her thumbs up, arms and legs akimbo, and buns swinging.

                It’s a trick to quiet the kids down, after that performance, but John settles them and gestures to me.  All one hundred or so wide eyes turn to me.  “This is Sarah,” John explains, beaming.  I flash a grin and wave quickly. 

                “And she’s giving us a gift.”  Another ripple of excited whispering, and I see smiles hidden behind hands.  Ah… I glance at him, startled, again, at his choice of words, but I warm to them.  He knows to articulate the situation using words that children will understand.  He explains that for the next couple of days, I’ll be painting in the baby classrooms and the sick bay.  He asks the children please respect my space and be kind to me and would they please welcome me?  They burst into wild applause.  My cheeks are hot, and I grin sheepishly at Dru.  She smiles sympathetically and claps along.  John holds up his hand, and the children bow their heads for prayer.  He prays quietly in Bemba, but his voice carries over our little huddle.  I hear my name and know his prayer is for us, which includes me.

               

                I’ve had my MP3 player tuned to the BBC station out of Kitwe for the last hour.  My internet connection at Ken and Deb’s house is too slow and costly to load NPR or CNN regularly, and I don’t buy the local newspaper.  BBC is better for me, anyway.  Gives me a healthy perspective on world news, one I wouldn’t necessarily find in the States, given that the U.S. is so often making or involving itself in world news.  Besides, I was flying over the Atlantic Ocean while Americans inaugurated President Barack Obama.  I chose to leave my country at the beginning of what looks like a wild four years.  While I’m not hungry for news from home, necessarily, I don’t want to lounge on a little island of ignorance, living here. I suppose it’s ironic that I traded one hotbed of controversy for another.  I’m in the heart of a continent that the media loves.  Africans make such interesting news, eh?  Not Zambians, though.  Even after the recent elections, Zambia’s a pretty calm, stable country—like a leaky faucet, here it’s just the quiet, steady drip-drip of poverty. The search for day labor and minimum pay.  (I am already tired of avoiding accusing eyes and sidestepping outstretched hands.)  Nursing children with malaria, housing children orphaned by AIDS.  (It’s rainy season.  The sick bay at Lifesong already has patients.  Most days, it’s full.)  No fuss, nothing big or flashy.

                Apart from rugby scores, the BBC doesn’t deliver sunshine and sprinkles, and I want to believe in something good today.

                I turn off my headphones and, from my desk, toss my MP3 player into my backpack, mildly pleased that I sank the shot.  I raise my brush again and pause.  Tuning in: the steady drone of clapping and chanting, punctuated by happy shouts and indignant howls, the soft thwap of a soccer ball on concrete, and the screeak and shudder of swings.  I soak in the happy babble of playing children.

                I’m no longer startled when I catch sight of tiny brown faces and wide, dark eyes peeking in the windows of the classroom.  Every time I turn around, it seems, they’re grinning (tiptoes on the desk!) or gasping (breaking the rules!), all watching me intently.  They scan the walls: letter A through letter Z, nine different shapes in nine brilliant colors.  The bravest kids point and shout the names they know. 

                “Cuh-lah red!” 

                            “Cuh-lah blue!”

                                         HEART!

                                                    …AH ha ha HA!”

                I’m working my way through the numbers, one to ten, when Lucy shoos the swarm of kids away from the windows.

               

                By the time lunch hour rolls around, my hands are covered in paint and my clothes smell of nshima and kapenta.  I’ve finished one baby classroom and started in the other.  I’m ready to eat and after, I’ll be ready to play for awhile.  I put away my materials and close the classroom door, and as I walk barefoot across the schoolyard towards the guesthouse, kids race to my side.  Marita is at the head of the pack.  “Auntie!  Auntie!” she calls, and I hold out my hand for her.  This is, of course, an invitation for every other child to take my hand, too, or my arm, my pocket, my thigh.  It’s awkward as hell to waddle across the grass covered in children, but I’m content to try.

Sunday, 04 October 2009

  • Currently
    Once Were Warriors
    By Alan Duff
    see related

    the beginning of Photo #8, or Lifesong (the bit about being a cranky bugger)

    In northern Zambia, birds begin clearing their throats at about 4:45 every morning.  By about five o’clock, the choir is fully assembled and warbling in harmony.  Most mornings, I wake with the birds, before the sun.  This morning, I wake the birds—eyes wide open at 4:30, mosquito net gathered and tucked above my bunk by 4:45.  I collect my clothing, pull on my wrinkled tank top and ripped, paint-smeared jeans.  Gingerly tiptoe to the kitchen so my footsteps won’t wake Dru.  I know she prefers to be up early.  Dru’s an American woman, like me, but if she hadn’t told me, I’d never know that she’s just a smudge younger than my own grandmother.  For nearly a decade, she’s lived and worked with street kids here in Kitwe, Zambia.  For the past few years, she’s been practically running the Lifesong School for orphaned and vulnerable children.  She exhausts me—the stamina she requires to meet the needs of each day.  Her own exhaustion breaks my heart. 

    I plug in the electric kettle, and when it begins to boil, I put one finger over my lips and shhh.  Ridiculous, that.  Scolding a kitchen utensil.  But I want Dru to keep sleeping.  My tea steeps.  I spoon in sugar and a splash of milk and settle on the couch in the living room.  March has been a soggy end to the rainy season.  No rain drumming on my windows this morning, though.  Clearest, coolest dawn.  Apart from the tuneful racket of the birds, quiet blankets the Lifesong School complex and the little guesthouse where Dru and I are staying. 

    Monday the ninth and Thursday the twelfth are national holidays—Youth Day and Women’s Day—so John Mumba, the school director, declared this entire week a mid-term holiday for the kids.  They have five whole days off from classes.  Which is why I’m here with Dru now, rather than next week.  Where I come from, during holidays, students and teachers tend to race in the direction exactly opposite their school buildings.  (In Indiana, for example, everyone migrates to Florida.)  The buildings left behind resemble Main Street in a ghost town: abandoned.  You can practically hear a lonely wind howling through the hallways.

      I assumed I could paint the classrooms in quiet, without disrupting classes full of wiggling three and four and five-year-olds.  Really, though, it’s that I’m cranky.  I’m tired.  And I don’t want to be bothered.  I’m craving quiet for myself, a holiday from my own clumsy attempts to navigate the rugged intellectual, relational, and emotional landscape of living—of sojourning, really—in Zambia.  I’ve been here nearly two months, now, but I finished the mural for Kafakumba’s children a month ago.  For a hard-thinking, strong-feeling young American whirling with energy, this is not the place to be idle  I’m spending too much time inside my own fancy brain—that’s John Enright’s wry but sincere compliment—making the mistake, it seems, of trying to understand anything at all about life here, work here, relationships here. 

     (And to that, and to my tears, Deb Vance smiled grimly, one day last week.  “When you finally get it,” she sighed, “you let me know, okay?”)

    For me, the bad days are those that feel the loneliest or the least purposeful, because I haven’t yet learned how to simply be here.  I go for long runs every morning.  Take long walks every day.  Sometimes I visit with folks and stumble into good conversations.  I keep my eyes and my ears wide open.  I read the books I brought with me and the books I’ve been given, writing my way through each day.  All of this throws light on my experiences in this place.  Then, thank God, I have my Mondays and Thursdays with the women’s group in Fisenge village.  I can whip my crochet hook back and forth and make something happen.  And still be quiet.  I can listen to the women chatter, or I can sing with them.  I can be with them.

    All that light.  Still, it seems impossible think or to see anything clearly here.  Impossible to chew hard enough and long enough to finally swallow.  Then, I feel scraped raw on the inside, for all that feeling I’ve come through.  I pitied myself this week, yes, and my poor heart, bruised to uselessness, so I’m back to searching for meaningful work for my hands, at least.  That’s me—I work out my own sadnesses, maybe my own salvation, in color.

     

    Yesterday, Monday, was the first holiday afternoon, but when Dru and I pulled into up the driveway and into the complex, there were a handful of kids, all ages, scattered across the school grounds.  They raced around, kicking a deflated, floppy soccer ball between them.  The ball connected with the side of each bare foot with a flat thwap.  The littlest kids zipped, one after the other, down a tiny slide that leaned slightly to the right.  Older girls pumped their legs, swooshing back and forth on a rickety swing set.  Its support system, standing metal poles, wobbled in the cement like loose teeth.  I cringed.  The swings squeaked.  The kids squealed or giggled or sang.

    So much for quiet.

    Within an hour, I had unpacked my paints and was standing, tiptoe, on a wooden desk in the first of the two “baby classrooms.”  I began in the corner, close to the ceiling, sketching lightly in pencil, bubbling-lettering a capital A.  Then lowercase a.  B. b. C…Slowly, stringing the alphabet like Christmas lights around the perimeter of the classroom, stepping gingerly from desk to desk.

    Weeks ago, during one of my first visits to Lifesong, I was stunned when John Mumba came to the guest house where Dru was making tea, shook my hand for the first time, sat down with his cup, and with a wide smile, asked me, “So!  What is your vision for our school?”  I nearly choked on my tea before I managed to explain that, without seeing the classrooms or talking to the teachers, I could hardly patch together a “vision” for the school.  “With all due respect, sir,” I offered, “this school belongs to all of you and to the children.  I’m interested in your vision and your needs, not my own.  Then I can paint almost anything you ask me to, if I have enough materials.”  Later, I had asked Lucy and Albertina, two of the teachers, what they would want painted in their classrooms, if they could have anything.  They had hemmed and hawed and decided on the alphabet.  An animal in each room, maybe, a big animal—“a hippo!”—and laughed to themselves, at this thought.  They had showed me some textbooks with the material for the baby classes.  They wanted shapes and colors.

    On the long wall above the door, just below the letters, I sketched the nine shapes.  Diamond.  Heart.  Circle.  Square.  Star  I crept along the wall, desk to desk, until I finished sketching, then I hopped down.  I pulled out my brushes, squeezed paints—a small puddle of each of the colors of the rainbow—and returned to the corner of the classroom.  Slick and bright blood red, Aa formed under my brush.  I leapt desks to GgMm… A tap at the window, and I turned and jumped, nearly falling off my perch.  A little girl was pressing her small, round, brown face against the glass, cupping her hands on either side of her eyes.  I lumbered awkwardly off the child-sized furniture, wiped my hands on my jeans and slid my brush into my ponytail, and walked to the window.  I crouched down.  She peered at me, wide-eyed, between the bars on the windows.  I stared back at her.  Then she grinned.  Smeared and blurred by the grime on the glass, her smile broke over me.  She was pure sunshine.  I put my finger on the glass where she pressed her nose and tapped it three times.  Thonk.  She slapped the window with her palm and giggled, and I motioned to the other kids, the swingset—anywhere I wouldn’t feel the weight of her tiny, watching eyes.  “Go play!”  She pranced back to the playground, and I stretched my legs, climbed my tower, and kept working.

Tuesday, 29 September 2009

  • Little Bird

    Today, Franny and I went trotting around Barb and Martha’s pasture—she at a good clip, bright orange Frisbee clamped in her teeth, begging, BEGGING for me to take it from her, and I at a stumbling job, regretting the decision to venture out on sore legs.  We made two rounds before, three feet ahead of me, tucked in the grass, I saw a small bird.  I startled it, unable to slow myself, and Franny dropped to the ground faster than I reach out my hands to the bird.

    “Franny!” I yelped, and I swatted her away.  No more than five seconds had passed, but with one quit pat of her over-eager two year old paw, she had done more harm than I could possibly undo.

    I knelt to the baby bird, and its tiny gold beak opened wide, then closed, opened again with a soft creaking, then closed.  Its eyes were wide—terrified?—and its wings were shuddering.  How do you sooth a bird in pain, I wondered, and I gently took it between my fingers, wings pressed to its sides, and I picked it up to put it on the Frisbee. 

    Its eyes closed.  Its whole body went soft and loose on my Frisbee, its neck slack and doubled over so that its head nearly touched its wing.  I stroked its feathers for a few moments, hoping.  When it didn’t move, when it stayed soft and empty-looking, tears sprang to my eyes, and I groaned brokenly at Fran.

    Stupid, stupid, natural puppy, I mumbled at her, and in my head, the phrase “bird-like” gathered and take shape:

    Light, hollow, quick but not quick enough, fragile, helpless, a thing of the air and sunshine.  Easily grounded.

    So I cried for the way things are, and I tilted the Frisbee into the high grass while Fran wasn’t looking. The little bird slid out of my sight.

    Sniffling, I jogged ahead, and Franny lumbered along behind me.